Intended for coastal engineers and marine scientists who desire to develop a fundamental physical understanding of ocean waves and be able to apply this knowledge to ocean and coastal analysis and design. Provides an introduction to the physical processes of ocean wave mechanics, an understanding of the basic techniques for wave analysis, techniques for practical calculation and prediction of waves and applied wave forecasting.
Стр. 278 - Borgman, LE, and Outlaw, DG (1987). "Generation and analysis of directional spectral waves in a laboratory basin.
Стр. 278 - Further analysis, however, will also require that the effect of the free surface fluctuations are included. 9. REFERENCES Buhr Hansen, J and Svendsen, IA (1974). Laboratory generation of waves of constant form. Proc. 14 'th Coast. Engng. Conf . , Copenhagen, vol. I, p. 321-339. Hasselmann, K (1971). On the mass and momentum transfer between short gravity waves and larger-scale motions. Jour. Fluid Mech., 50, p. 189-205. Horikawa, K. and Kuo, C. (1966) . Wave transformation after a breaking point.